By Jake Rallo
There might not be anything more quintessentially New Jersey than sitting down in a diner. And chances are you won’t have to go far to find one, with nearly 600 across the state. Which, in a state so small, raises an interesting question: Why are there so many diners in New Jersey?
While it’s true that the. Garden State has more diners per capita than any other state, thanks in part to being the most densely populated in the U.S., that’s only part of the story. New Jersey’s status as the Diner Capital of the World has historical roots that stretch back over a century. And the wildest part? A few of those original diners are still serving customers today.
Let’s take a quick look at what we’ll call the “Diner Boom” of New Jersey.
Where Chrome Shines: The Classic Diner Aesthetic
Jerry O’Mahony is generally credited with building the first diner in the state, a stationary lunch wagon in 1912 in Bayonne. That same year, Jerry and his brother Daniel O’Mahony, along with carpenter John Hanf, sold their first stationary lunch wagon or “diner” to a man named Michael Griffin for just $800. This sale is widely regarded as an early moment that sparked New Jersey’s rise as the diner capital of the world. The Jerry O’Mahony Dining Car Company would go on to manufacture more than 2,000 diners between 1912 and 1975, many of which were installed throughout New Jersey and across the country.
During that time, other manufacturing facilities popped up, encouraging the rapid increase of diners in the state, including: Kullman Dining Car Company, founded in Newark in 1927 by Samuel Kullman. It produced over 1,000 prefabricated diners in the state between 1927 and 2000. These diners were built off-site, allowing for quick and easy installation upon delivery. Kullman became known as one of the longest-standing companies in the diner industry.
Silk City Diners was founded in the 1920s as a division of the Paterson Wagon Company in Paterson. Its name paid homage to the once-thriving silk manufacturing industry in Paterson in the 19th century. While they only produced a mere 150 to 200 diners in comparison to the larger players, the company was known for its superior craftsmanship.
Fodero Dining Car Company was founded by Joseph Fodero, an Italian immigrant, in Bloomfield. Fodero produced roughly 500 diners from the 1930s to the 1980s. Today you can visit the Summit Diner in Summit to experience an original Fodero diner. These diners weren’t just functional, they were iconic in style, each one contributing to a now-classic aesthetic that still turns heads today.
Commonly characterized by lunch counters with stools bolted to the floor, tiny kitchens, cozy booths, tight spaces, and shiny chrome, these “railcars” evoke a familiar sense of Americana the moment you step inside.
That feeling is amplified by sprawling menus, thick ceramic coffee mugs, and friendly, welcoming smiles.
A Piece of History
One shining example of this enduring tradition is a genuine Silk City Diner right here in Monmouth County: the Roadside Diner in Wall, which has been serving travelers and locals alike since 1949.
Soon to reopen under new ownership, Maria and Nicolas Kallas purchased the diner with a clear mission – to preserve its classic train car charm. The Kallas’ are no strangers to the diner world; they successfully operate the Broad Street Diner in Keyport which has been open for over a decade, and both grew up in their parents’ diners, sharing a seemingly parallel childhood rooted in the rhythms of classic diner life. In fact, their families were business partners operating the Parsonage Diner in Edison.
Their appreciation for smaller, rail-car-style diners, in contrast to the larger establishments that dominate today’s landscape, reflects a belief in the power of dining intimacy. In these compact spaces, people are naturally drawn together. When you’re just inches from the next bolted-down barstool, conversation often becomes inevitable.
Pulling up to the diner, you’re met with a long, narrow stainless steel building that resembles a classic train car. A simple sign hangs above the original sliding doors, welcoming you in. Stepping inside feels like stepping out of the modern world and into the past. Nineteen original bar stools are bolted to the floor, tightly lined up along the lunch counter. On either side of the entrance, three cozy booths with red leather seating hug the windows – that’s the extent of the seating. Checkered tile floors, shiny stainless steel, and original railcar-style windows complete the classic interior.
You might arrive with friends or family, but chances are you’ll strike up a conversation with someone next to you. The close quarters invite connection, and to me, that’s what true hospitality is all about: sharing a moment, forgetting your “real world” obligations and enjoying a meal together.
Maria and her husband restored every detail, from the original steam table and pie cabinet behind the counter to the vintage air conditioning unit – don’t worry, they also installed a modern one. They even went so far as to replicate the light temperature you’d find in a 1940s diner, casting a warm, inviting glow. The charm and character of this diner are something special, an experience you don’t want to miss.
The Roadside Diner is set to reopen this month. Step inside and you’ll be transported back in time, with the chance to experience true, old-fashioned diner hospitality.
A Modern Take on a Classic
In the space formerly occupied by Umberto’s, the Fair Haven Diner opened its doors earlier this year and has been thriving since.
The man behind it, Mike Niotis, is no stranger to the diner world. Raised in a diner family, Mike grew up working alongside his father, who owned several diners throughout New Jersey. “My father owned diners all my life,” Niotis said. “I’ve been working in diners since I was 8.”
The family’s journey began in 1979 when Niotis’ father, a Greek immigrant, bought into the Parsonage Diner in Edison. From there, diner life became a full-fledged family affair – cousins, uncles, even his brother-in-law joined the business. Remember the Roadside Diner earlier? Niotis is Maria Kallas’ brother.
In 2000, Niotis officially partnered with his father to open the Seaport Diner in Elizabeth, a historic Silk City Diner. He ran the diner for 25 years before selling it last September. With an open kitchen, a long lunch counter and booths, the diner was exactly what you’d imagine seeing in any 1950s movie.
Though the Seaport Diner was a success, Niotis was ready to bring something closer to home in Monmouth County. After the sale, he began exploring his next move. With a culinary background, he considered launching a full-scale restaurant – but the idea of another diner lingered.
In his search, he stumbled upon his current space on River Road. At the time, he knew nothing about the town of Fair Haven. But after weeks of quietly observing the area, sitting in parking lots, watching foot traffic, and getting a feel for the community, he knew he’d found the right spot.
Niotis saw an opportunity. “Where does everyone eat? Where’s that easy place that isn’t work to go to?” he asked. “Everyone in New Jersey is a diner person – and this town never had one.”
Niotis’ new spot may not be a classic railcar-style diner, but it still captures the same sense of nostalgia that diners are known for – and that’s largely thanks to the menu. True to diner tradition, it offers a little bit of everything: from comfort-food classics like the Fried Fish Sandwich to breakfast staples like omelets, pancakes and even hearty soups. His personal favorite right now? The Jersey Egg Roll – a playful twist on the beloved pork roll, egg and cheese combo, served egg roll-style for a crispy twist on a Jersey tradition.
It’s not just the menu that brings that classic diner feeling to life – it’s the staff, too. From the moment I walked in, I was greeted with warm smiles and friendly conversation that immediately set the tone. A perfectly made cappuccino and a delicious stack of classic pancakes, I left the diner eager to go back. Now also open for dinner Thursday through Saturday, it’s the perfect time to check out this new staple.
So, next time you pass a diner, whether it’s in a small town like Fair Haven or along the roadside in Wall, don’t just drive by. Big or small, pull in. Take a seat. Order a classic. And remember: in the Diner Capital of the World, there’s always room at the counter.
Jake Rallo, part of the Rallo family dining legacy, is managing partner of River Pointe Inn in Rumson.
The article originally appeared in the July 17 – July 23, 2025 print edition of The Two River Times.
