Ada’s Latin Flavor RATING: Good
We have seen aprons with “Hug the Cook” emblazoned across the front, but other than being embraced by our mothers, we had never been hugged by the cook, until we had dinner at Ada’s Latin Flavor on Broadway in Long Branch.
Ada is the warm and effervescent chef and owner of this tiny, unassuming, 20-seat storefront that serves Dominican cuisine every day, as well as authentic Ethiopian food on Thursday, Friday, and Saturdays. She was so genuinely happy to feed us and share her story that we felt an instant connection with her, which she bolstered by hugging each of us goodbye at the end of the evening. Lest you think she did so because she knew our purpose there, that is not the case; she is just a happy and giving person and her food shows it.
Ada emigrated here from Ethiopia, and met her husband, Muller, also from Ethiopia, here; she eventually spotted an ad for a Dominican eatery and takeout at this location. Coming from a large family that had owned restaurants back in Africa, she decided to forsake her career in accounting and follow her passion – cooking, and passing on her family’s recipes to her patrons. There was already an established following for the Dominican food, which she learned to prepare, so she added the foods of her homeland to that menu as well.
At a recent visit to Ada’s we were compelled to sample dishes from both sides of her unusual menu. From the Latin appetizer selection, we chose crisp and totally greaseless Chicken Empanadas ($2.50 each) with a side of fresh salsa. A beef version is also offered. We really enjoyed the Mofongo ($6); fried, then mashed, green plantains, with garlic and crunchy chicharron (traditional fried pork rind), and a small cup of homemade sauce of spices, oil, and garlic. The combination of soft and crisp kept us returning to the plate throughout the meal. The Mofongo can also be ordered as a side dish with Fried Pork chops, Shrimp, Pernil (Pork), Sautéed Tilapia, Skirt Steak, or other proteins as well.
Yucca “pancakes” ($6), crispy on the outside, and creamy within, came with the salsa and sour cream. The yucca cakes were one of our favorite dishes; very much akin to potato latkes. Don’t miss them!
Bacalao (Salt Cod), Dominican Style ($12) in tomato-based sauce, with onions, peppers, and cilantro, and boiled yucca, was complex and satisfying; the yucca, in a totally different form, played the role of a tender, and mildly sweet potato.
The rest of our entrees were classic Ethiopian dishes: Doro Tibs ($12), marinated chunks of chicken breast with onions, peppers, tomato, garlic, and ginger, was served mildly spiced, at our request. Diners can opt for spicy if they want more kick, but we were very happy at this degree of heat.
Beef Stew ($12) included tender beef cubes sautéed in Ethiopian spicy butter, which is clarified and beautifully seasoned, and then stewed in a sauce of red peppers, onions, garlic, and ginger.
An immense Combination Platter ($18) of traditional vegetarian offerings was exceptional. Individual servings of spicy split red lentils, collard greens, cooked cabbage, Shiro (thick chick pea and red berbere sauce), Fasolai (sautéed string beans, carrots, onion, and potatoes), and yellow peas, sat on a huge homemade Injera (a traditional, fermented, pancake-like bread, made from teff, an ancient grain). At the direction of Muller, we abandoned our forks and tore off pieces of the spongy, sour bread, and used that to scoop up the richly flavored vegetable dishes and carry them to our mouths. If you think kids are going to love this eating with their hands thing, you are so right! This platter alone is reason enough to visit Ada’s.
All of the entrees came with a small, perfectly fresh, crisp salad of lettuce, tomato, and onion, garnishing each plate.
This is a BYO, so we suggest bringing white wines with a trace of sweetness, and some acidity, such as Alsatian Riesling or Gewurztraminer, Demi Sec Chenin Blanc from the Loire Valley, or an Austrian Gruner Veltliner. For reds, a spicy Spanish Rioja, Grenache from the Rhone Valley, or even a Malbec from Argentina. Another good choice to pair with this kind of good would be beer.
By all means, go to Ada’s Latin Flavor for her home-style food served in an unpretentious setting, but do not miss the chance to speak with Ada and Muller. You will come away with some new friends, and she may even hug you, too!
The two Bobs rate Ada’s Latin Cuisine: Good
ADA’S LATIN FLAVOR
279 Broadway, Long Branch
732-222-5005
Bob Sacks, wine aficionado, and Bob Sickles, owner and operator of Sickles Market, review restaurants in this bimonthly column. Read their reviews here.
