The building at the corner of East River Road and Black Point Road in Rumson has been home to various restaurants for decades. From 1974 to 2008 it was the site of the iconic Briody’s Irish Pub – admittedly, a tough act to follow. Next, there was a short run of another Irish pub, Murray MacGregor’s, until it was reborn as Surf Barbecue. Recently, the building has been extensively renovated and is now the River Pointe Inn. The vibe is reminiscent of the original in terms of a lively crowd looking for a good meal in a fun atmosphere.
The menu is French/bistro style and includes a raw bar with a number of fish and shellfish offerings, from which we chose Fluke Crudo ($22). The unique presentation included baby artichokes, sugar snap pea jus, a citron confit and preserved tomatoes, which did not overwhelm the sweet freshness of the fish.
The unassumingly named River Pointe Bread Service ($7) proved to be way too good. The crusty warm demi baguettes were served with whipped butter, red radish and cornichons. It was hard to resist snacking on them and they disappeared quickly. There are times I resist paying for bread, but these are well worth the modest charge.
We also enjoyed the Tuna Tartare Nicoise starter ($23), which was prepared with avocado Dijon mousse, olives, capers and tomato and topped with fingerling potato chips. The plating and combination of ingredients made for a nice variation on what is a frequently seen appetizer offering in many restaurants. This was tangy and tasty.
It was impossible to resist ordering the Crispy Brie ($19) based solely on the name and description on the menu. Three good-sized triangular wedges of the cheese are encrusted with panko breadcrumbs and sautéed, then placed on a red currant vinaigrette with lime and decorated with serrano pepper and green onion. It paired nicely with the crusty bread and was an enjoyable dish to share.
From the Entrée offerings, one of my guests chose the Spring Vegetable Tagine ($29). The vegetables, which had been braised in verjus (the pressed juice of unripe grapes and a distant relative of vinegar, lending a mild vinegar-like, acidic element), sat over Carolina gold rice and a coconut carrot cream. It arrived in a traditional tagine pot, the cone-like cover removed at the table, revealing carrots, asparagus, peas, baby onions and more. The rice at the bottom of the pot was crisp – a favorite of the night! I suggest ordering one and the table sharing it as a side dish with your entrees.
Cod Provencal ($34) featured a thick filet of moist and juicy fish plated with marinated olives, sauce vierge (a French sauce made from olive oil, lemon juice, chopped tomatoes and basil and crushed coriander seed) and fingerling potatoes. The sauce added much flavor to the simply prepared cod.
A hefty portion of Steak Frites ($44) filled the plate with a 12-ounce Black Angus hanger steak, a mountain of pommes frites and maître d’butter (a compound butter with parsley and lemon juice). This was a very authentic French bistro dish, highlighting the culinary theme of the River Pointe Inn.
A fish lover at our table chose the Salmon ($36), which was brioche-crusted and accompanied by baby spinach, Vermont pearl onions and a ginger beurre blanc. The nicely sized filet arrived properly rare, as requested, and was juicy and tender. It was another example of the use of fresh seasonal vegetables by the chef in his dishes.
In keeping with the cuisine, the wine offerings lean heavily toward France, with some U.S. choices to round out the list. An assortment of wines by the glass provided us with a Joseph Drouhin Chablis ($20), a crisp, fruity, chardonnay-based white wine; a Chateau Peyrassol Rose ($17), a southern Rhone blend, which was fruity but dry; a Domaine Faiveley Bourgogne Rouge ($19), a perfumy and light pinot noir from Burgundy; and a Cyprien Parchaud Sancerre ($20), a Loire Valley white with refreshing acidity. The list of full bottles ranges from reasonably priced everyday drinkers to rare and special occasion bottles priced accordingly. There is also a nice selection of beers, martinis and cocktails.
The dessert menu offered rotating seasonal flavors of Artisanal Ice cream ($12), made by a well-known Manhattan gelato maker, from which we chose Banana Chip Ice Cream, which was rich and creamy. If you are a banana lover, do not miss it! The Seasonal Dessert, Strawberry Rhubarb Tarte ($15), placed the two fruits in a crunchy almond pastry shell and was topped with fresh whipped cream. A scoop of vanilla ice cream decorated the plate. It disappeared in a heartbeat; we should have ordered two.
The latest restaurant to occupy this location feels like the best, for the past has been married with a very modern feel, which makes it a destination for fine dining, a couple’s night out, a bite at the bar or a fun place to stop in for a drink. River Pointe Inn has something for everyone and delivers it in a lively, contemporary setting.
River Pointe Inn
132 E. River Road,
Rumson
riverpointeinn.com
Bob Sacks, longtime food and wine buff, writes about food, wine and restaurants in this column. Follow him on Instagram @dinnerwithbob.
The article originally appeared in the May 9 – 15, 2024 print edition of The Two River Times.
